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| Customer Reviews: | | Average Customer Review: ( 24 customer reviews )
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Most Helpful Customer Reviews
121 of 125 found the following review helpful:
 Inexpensive way to use rechargeable AA cells for D-cell applications Sep 09, 2007
By NLee the Engineer
If you have some power-hungry applications that require D-cells, you can usually save money in the long run by using rechargeable NiMH cells instead of alkaline cells. One approach is to buy a set of AA to D-sized adapter shells, and use rechargeable AA NiMh cells in those. This is the cheapest method because AA NiMH cells typically cost less than ten dollars for a package of four, and you can use low-cost AA charger for them (instead of buying another charger that accepts D-cells).
However, don't expect to get the same operation time as before when you were using alkaline cells. This is because the capacity of a typical NiMH AA cell is only about 2500mAh. In comparison, a typical alkaline D-cell is rated at about 20,000mAh for low current applications. At higher current, the actual capacity may drop to half. But this is still four times as much as that of a NiMH AA cell. In other words, you can only expect one-quarter the operation time after switching to NiMH AA cells.
There are rechargeable NiMH D-cells available with capacity up to 12,000mAh. Those cells can out-last alkaline D-cells in large current applications. However, those cells are expensive (around $25 for two) and you need special charger that are designed to charge high capacity D-cells. (Most low-cost chargers, even those that can accept D-cells, cannot fully recharge cells with capacity greater than 3000mAh)
Finally, be carefull not to fall victim to fake D-cells offered by Energizer and Rayovac. Those are just 2500mAh AA cells enclosed in larger D-sized cases. Prices of those fake D-cells are often ridiculously high, even though you still get very short operation time from those. Plus you need to buy a charger that can accept D-cells.
All things considered, using AA cells in D-sized adapters is still a good approach. Just make sure that you lower your expectation, and DON'T PAY TOO MUCH for those cheap plastic shells.
30 of 31 found the following review helpful:
 Do not work well Jan 15, 2008
By I. Boys
These have failed to work for me in every item where I have tried to use them. The problem was that they did not make electrical contact with the metal springs inside the battery compartment. If you compare these adapters with a real D size battery, you will see that the typical real battery has much larger metal areas for the springs to touch.
It's a nice idea and I'd love to find some adapters with a better design but these unfortunately fail the test. Buyer beware.
8 of 8 found the following review helpful:
Gets the job done, barely Feb 10, 2009
By ShoppingSmart
I've used a similar product by Panasonic which was MUCH better made, but I haven't found the Panasonic brand adapters sold outside of a Costco rechargeable battery kit.
The 4 Lenmar AA-to-D adapters do work but they are inconsistent in how well your AA batteries fit inside. 2 of the 4 adapters worked normally for me while the other 2 were too loose or the AA battery didn't snap into place when inserted - and I tried several AA batteries with the same results.
These Lenmar's are cheaply made but they will work. I don't recommend putting these adapters into service where you're going to have to change-out batteries all the time.
9 of 10 found the following review helpful:
make your own May 24, 2011
By pwallen1962
These devices are great, but you can make your own...
NEEDED (for C-cell): 1" PVC tubing.
NEEDED (for D-cell): 1.25" PVC tubing, piece of 1/4" rod (this will become the positive electrode).
NEEDED (for either): piece of wood (6" piece of 2x4 is good), 12" piece of rod (smooth metal) 9/16" diameter (slightly larger diameter than AA bty), lots of hot-melt glue.
First thing to do is build your jig. If you're planning on making adapters for C & D cells, use the same piece of wood.
FOR C-CELLS: bore a 1" hole about 1/4" deep, then bore a 9/16" hole in the center of that, about 3/4" deep (you want it to hold the rod snuggly, but not so tight you can't pull it out by hand).
FOR D-CELLS: bore a 1.25" hole about 1/4" deep, then bore a 1/4" hole in the center of that, 1/4" deeper than larger hole (1/4" deeper is important here, don't deviate much. None of the other depths are important, just to hold things in place). On your 12" rod, drill a 1/4" hole on one end about 1/8" deep (do this for D-cells only, not needed for C-cells).
That's it for the jig. Now you're ready to make dozens of adapters in no time.
FOR C-CELLS: Cut 1" PVC into 1.8" lengths (shorter than AA bty). Place PVC piece into jig. Insert 12" rod into smaller hole (grease up the part of the rod inside the PVC tubing with vasoline, aids in removal). Now squirt in some hot-melt glue in the void between PVC and rod all the way to the top. Let cool, and remove rod.
FOR D-CELLS: Cut 1.25" PVC into 2.25" lengths. Cut the 1/4" rod into 3/8" lengths. Place the 1/4" rod piece (positive electrode) into the jig, then place the PVC piece into the jig. Next, place the end of the 12" rod with the hole in the end over the positive electrode (grease up the part of the rod inside the PVC tubing with vasoline, aids in removal), then fill in the void with hot-melt glue as before. Let cool, and remove rod. You may want to add something to hold the 12" rod in place, rather than holding it while the glue hardens.
If you care if the battery falls out, wedge a small piece of something between bty and housing to hold it in place. A piece of duct tape works well.
DISCLAIMER: If anyone cuts off a finger, drills a hole in their hand or burns themselves with hot-melt glue, I am not responsible, and your are not careful. And remember, schitte happens!
6 of 6 found the following review helpful:
 Works as good as my Eneloop spacers. Apr 22, 2011
By Nuknuk
Most of my battery spacers are Eneloops that came with the batteries. They are available separately but generally pricier. The Lenmar is good enough. My "AAs" batteries fit them. All you have to do is push it from the bottom and it locks in the spacer with a satisfying click, just like the Eneloops.
The label is just a sticker that goes around the cylinder which gives it a cheap feel on it. You might not also get the same label as the pictures shown as I got a different gray/silver label instead. But what is important to me is that it works, not defective, and the money savings. I'll buy it again unless I find somebody else comes out with a better product and a better deal.
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